Usage – ways of dressing and others
After exploring the different factors that are involved in decorative development, some examples allow the evocation of the role and place that fabrics play in the social life, as marks of identity, such as elements of profane or religious rituals or as vectors of artistic expression.
The majority of decorated fabrics that enter into social rituals, or have a symbolic function with their patterns or colours, are mainly clothing but they can also have other profane or ceremonial uses.
Man’s turban Rajput, pagri India, Rajasthan, Jodhpur, end of 19th – beginning of 20th century Cotton, spun, metallic gold Françoise Cousin Mission 71.1983.85.27
These turbans made in very long and narrow widths of fabric were skilfully draped and usage reserved for the upper classes of the feudal society in Rajasthan. They are no longer used today but the ornamental process called lahariya (in the shape of a wave) is still widely used for women’s veils or men’s turbans (see higher up « reserves »). The basic fabric is a muslin cloth, that is, very light, barré at both ends with an edging of cotton spun with metallic threads. The reserve achieved by tying on the fabric folded in 2, double pleated, then again in 2 and finally rolled on itself, selvage to the interior. Tying is arranged in bias which, when taken off after dyeing pink in a single bath, gives a chevron pattern.