Technique – supports and reserves
The supports on which the reserves are made vary according to the raw material used and its treatment, and according to the structure of the fabric. They reflect availabilities in the natural environment but also aesthetic and cultural choices.
Two large groups of reserve can be seen : reserves that are tied and others that are sewn. They can be made without a mark or, on the contrary, follow a pattern inscribed beforehand in or on the fabric. The link itself is by nature variable : A thread of cotton, a strand of raffia, a strip of plastic or rubber, etc.
Loincloth with an « aeroplane » pattern Guinea, Fouta Djalon, Labé, Peul, beginning of the 21st century Cotton Françoise Cousin Mission 71.2000.8.16
The loincloth consists of a single width made from imported industrial damask, basin. After the preparation of reserves by sewing and gathering, it is dyed in a vegetable indigo bath. The preparation of reserves and dyeing, preceding the privilege of Soninké dyers, are considered as female activities of recent adoption by the Peuls of Fouta Djalon. Production is dynamic and new patterns frequently appear. The use of the basin allows designs to be carried out on folded fabrics The preparation of reserves by sewing produces patterns with outlines that are clear with the cotton cloth spun and woven locally.