Technique – supports and reserves

The supports on which the reserves are made vary according to the raw material used and its treatment, and according to the structure of the fabric. They reflect availabilities in the natural environment but also aesthetic and cultural choices.

Two large groups of reserve can be seen : reserves that are tied and others that are sewn. They can be made without a mark or, on the contrary, follow a pattern inscribed beforehand in or on the fabric. The link itself is by nature variable : A thread of cotton, a strand of raffia, a strip of plastic or rubber, etc.

  • locally woven cotton

    locally woven cotton

  • industrial cotton

    industrial cotton

  • plaited raffia

    plaited raffia

  • plaited pandanus

    plaited pandanus

  • woven silk

    woven silk

  • woven camel wool

    woven camel wool

  • sheep's wool and sprang

    sheep's wool and sprang

  • double knot

    double knot

  • tying


  • tying pinched fabric

    tying pinched fabric

  • sewing and gathering

    sewing and gathering

  • reserve by sewing and concealment

    reserve by sewing and concealment

  • Embroidery


  • tied stencil

    tied stencil

le woven camel wool

woven camel wool

Fragment of shirt, unku Peru, South Coast, Cahuachi, Nasca-Wari Culture (around 100-800) Camel wool, S-twisted yarn with 2-ply S ends Donation by Henry Reichlen 71.1993.13.159

Weaving method, warp dominated cloth, reserve prepared by knot tying, tying and dyeing. Stitched plait with narrow finishing strips. Opinions differ on the dating of this piece. The design would represent the skin of a feline and would hand over power to the one who wears the piece of clothing. The direction of twisting, in pre-Hispanic fabrics as in contemporary fabrics, depends on the ritual or secular usage of the pieces. 45x30 cm