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22 September

Technique – supports and reserves

The supports on which the reserves are made vary according to the raw material used and its treatment, and according to the structure of the fabric. They reflect availabilities in the natural environment but also aesthetic and cultural choices.

Two large groups of reserve can be seen : reserves that are tied and others that are sewn. They can be made without a mark or, on the contrary, follow a pattern inscribed beforehand in or on the fabric. The link itself is by nature variable : A thread of cotton, a strand of raffia, a strip of plastic or rubber, etc.

  • locally woven cotton

    locally woven cotton

  • industrial cotton

    industrial cotton

  • plaited raffia

    plaited raffia

  • plaited pandanus

    plaited pandanus

  • woven silk

    woven silk

  • woven camel wool

    woven camel wool

  • sheep's wool and sprang

    sheep's wool and sprang

  • double knot

    double knot

  • tying

    tying

  • tying pinched fabric

    tying pinched fabric

  • sewing and gathering

    sewing and gathering

  • reserve by sewing and concealment

    reserve by sewing and concealment

  • Embroidery

    Embroidery

  • tied stencil

    tied stencil


sheep's wool and sprang

sheep's wool and sprang

Woman’s headband Tunisia, Gabes Region, Chenini or Beni Zid, Berber, beginning of the 20th century Strongly S-twisted wool with 2 Z-twisted ends 70.2007.52.1

Sprang preparation for the reserve by knot tying in spirals, two dye baths: red madder and black. Sprang is a very old technique, related to plaiting, where the tightened yarn interlaces at the same time with the two ends. It is necessary to cross one or several threads across the middle in order to keep the interlaced threads in position. The manufacturing technique results in an extendable fabric that is perfectly adequate for the use of a belt or, as here, a headband in order to support a veil. Headbands made using the South Tunisian sprang technique are always dyed in red and black. 165x30 cm