Technique – supports and reserves
The supports on which the reserves are made vary according to the raw material used and its treatment, and according to the structure of the fabric. They reflect availabilities in the natural environment but also aesthetic and cultural choices.
Two large groups of reserve can be seen : reserves that are tied and others that are sewn. They can be made without a mark or, on the contrary, follow a pattern inscribed beforehand in or on the fabric. The link itself is by nature variable : A thread of cotton, a strand of raffia, a strip of plastic or rubber, etc.
sheep's wool and sprang
Woman’s headband Tunisia, Gabes Region, Chenini or Beni Zid, Berber, beginning of the 20th century Strongly S-twisted wool with 2 Z-twisted ends 70.2007.52.1
Sprang preparation for the reserve by knot tying in spirals, two dye baths: red madder and black. Sprang is a very old technique, related to plaiting, where the tightened yarn interlaces at the same time with the two ends. It is necessary to cross one or several threads across the middle in order to keep the interlaced threads in position. The manufacturing technique results in an extendable fabric that is perfectly adequate for the use of a belt or, as here, a headband in order to support a veil. Headbands made using the South Tunisian sprang technique are always dyed in red and black. 165x30 cm