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29 July

Technique – supports and reserves

The supports on which the reserves are made vary according to the raw material used and its treatment, and according to the structure of the fabric. They reflect availabilities in the natural environment but also aesthetic and cultural choices.

Two large groups of reserve can be seen : reserves that are tied and others that are sewn. They can be made without a mark or, on the contrary, follow a pattern inscribed beforehand in or on the fabric. The link itself is by nature variable : A thread of cotton, a strand of raffia, a strip of plastic or rubber, etc.

  • locally woven cotton

    locally woven cotton

  • industrial cotton

    industrial cotton

  • plaited raffia

    plaited raffia

  • plaited pandanus

    plaited pandanus

  • woven silk

    woven silk

  • woven camel wool

    woven camel wool

  • sheep's wool and sprang

    sheep's wool and sprang

  • double knot

    double knot

  • tying

    tying

  • tying pinched fabric

    tying pinched fabric

  • sewing and gathering

    sewing and gathering

  • reserve by sewing and concealment

    reserve by sewing and concealment

  • Embroidery

    Embroidery

  • tied stencil

    tied stencil


tying

tying

Man’s turban, pagri India, Rajasthan, Jodhpur, 20th century Cotton Françoise Cousin Mission 71.1971.53.32

The reserve dye used is called lahariya from Lahar « wave ». The thin cotton cloth is rolled on the bias and the resulting bolt of fabric is tied, then dyed in several baths; each dyeing stage preceded by an additional series of tying. The fabric is then rolled on the other bias, tied and dyed in a single yellow bath. The monochrome triangular surface at the end is characteristic of this process. Turbans and yarns sold as such, which certifies the manufacturing process, are withdrawn by the merchants in the bazaars once the purchase has been carried out. Turbans displaying this kind of design were formerly reserved for certain classes of society. Since the country’s independence, they are used widely by men in the community. 175x27 cm