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23 October

Technique – supports and reserves

The supports on which the reserves are made vary according to the raw material used and its treatment, and according to the structure of the fabric. They reflect availabilities in the natural environment but also aesthetic and cultural choices.

Two large groups of reserve can be seen : reserves that are tied and others that are sewn. They can be made without a mark or, on the contrary, follow a pattern inscribed beforehand in or on the fabric. The link itself is by nature variable : A thread of cotton, a strand of raffia, a strip of plastic or rubber, etc.

  • locally woven cotton

    locally woven cotton

  • industrial cotton

    industrial cotton

  • plaited raffia

    plaited raffia

  • plaited pandanus

    plaited pandanus

  • woven silk

    woven silk

  • woven camel wool

    woven camel wool

  • sheep's wool and sprang

    sheep's wool and sprang

  • double knot

    double knot

  • tying

    tying

  • tying pinched fabric

    tying pinched fabric

  • sewing and gathering

    sewing and gathering

  • reserve by sewing and concealment

    reserve by sewing and concealment

  • Embroidery

    Embroidery

  • tied stencil

    tied stencil


reserve by sewing and concealment

reserve by sewing and concealment

Young boy’s kimono belt Japan, beginning of the 20th century Silk Japanese Pavilion, 1937 International Exhibition 71.1938.8.1.19

Two kinds of reserve are made on the strip of crepe taffeta : a reserve by knot tying, yokobiki kanoko shibori which forms lines of small stitches in order to decorate the two ends, and a reserve by sewing and concealment, boshi shibori which marks out large tinting areas on the body of the piece. These reserves are followed by three, probably partial, dye baths : blue, red and yellow. The representation of the Japanese flag shows the masculine usage of this kind of belt and evokes nationalists feeling during the period of its creation.