Technique – supports and reserves
The supports on which the reserves are made vary according to the raw material used and its treatment, and according to the structure of the fabric. They reflect availabilities in the natural environment but also aesthetic and cultural choices.
Two large groups of reserve can be seen : reserves that are tied and others that are sewn. They can be made without a mark or, on the contrary, follow a pattern inscribed beforehand in or on the fabric. The link itself is by nature variable : A thread of cotton, a strand of raffia, a strip of plastic or rubber, etc.
reserve by sewing and concealment
Young boy’s kimono belt Japan, beginning of the 20th century Silk Japanese Pavilion, 1937 International Exhibition 71.19126.96.36.199
Two kinds of reserve are made on the strip of crepe taffeta : a reserve by knot tying, yokobiki kanoko shibori which forms lines of small stitches in order to decorate the two ends, and a reserve by sewing and concealment, boshi shibori which marks out large tinting areas on the body of the piece. These reserves are followed by three, probably partial, dye baths : blue, red and yellow. The representation of the Japanese flag shows the masculine usage of this kind of belt and evokes nationalists feeling during the period of its creation.