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20 April

Technique – supports and reserves

The supports on which the reserves are made vary according to the raw material used and its treatment, and according to the structure of the fabric. They reflect availabilities in the natural environment but also aesthetic and cultural choices.

Two large groups of reserve can be seen : reserves that are tied and others that are sewn. They can be made without a mark or, on the contrary, follow a pattern inscribed beforehand in or on the fabric. The link itself is by nature variable : A thread of cotton, a strand of raffia, a strip of plastic or rubber, etc.

  • locally woven cotton

    locally woven cotton

  • industrial cotton

    industrial cotton

  • plaited raffia

    plaited raffia

  • plaited pandanus

    plaited pandanus

  • woven silk

    woven silk

  • woven camel wool

    woven camel wool

  • sheep's wool and sprang

    sheep's wool and sprang

  • double knot

    double knot

  • tying

    tying

  • tying pinched fabric

    tying pinched fabric

  • sewing and gathering

    sewing and gathering

  • reserve by sewing and concealment

    reserve by sewing and concealment

  • Embroidery

    Embroidery

  • tied stencil

    tied stencil


tied stencil

tied stencil

Rug qana vivi Vanuatu, Ambae, beginning of the 20th century Pandanus leaf fibre (Pandanus tectorius) Mage and Rilling Collection (School of Anthropology Repository) 71.1941.21.38

One applies some stencils cut in a banana petiole on the rug made from two braided strips assembled by sewing in relief. This creates patterns in round forms after dyeing, whilst the appliques of Heliconia indica stalks maintained in the same way, give more angular shapes (see I-1, 4th label.) The same pattern is repeated twice on three registers and a trellis design decorates the hemstitched weaving at the ends of the rug. 126x40 cm